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All technical aspects of digital photography
Discussion Last answer Replies / Clicks
Phil Davson

I need help with choosing lenes 350D

Phil Davson 16.06.05, 22:28
Very difficult to say based on the info you have given here.
Important matter is: what do you intend to use this lens for? 2.8 is always better then 7.8 and 15/55 or 70 mm is depending on what you want to shoot.
Ruud van der Lubben 16.06.05, 23:51
Ruud van der Lubben Ruud van der Lubben 16.06.05, 23:51
Very difficult to say based on the info you have given here.
Important matter is: what do you intend to use this lens for? 2.8 is always better then 7.8 and 15/55 or 70 mm is depending on what you want to shoot.
2
520 clicks
Tatiana Back

Hey there!

Tatiana Back 16.06.05, 21:27
I`m looking for Contacts in NY. I`m coming to NY at 2nd of July 2005 for 3-7 Day`s and I would like to meet other Photographers from NY, for exchange of experience.
My E-mail: planeta@gmx.de
Tatiana Back 16.06.05, 21:27
Tatiana Back Tatiana Back 16.06.05, 21:27
I`m looking for Contacts in NY. I`m coming to NY at 2nd of July 2005 for 3-7 Day`s and I would like to meet other Photographers from NY, for exchange of experience.
My E-mail: planeta@gmx.de
1
518 clicks
Raymond Mckay

sharpness

Raymond Mckay 02.06.05, 03:03
thanks for the help
Raymond Mckay 06.06.05, 21:37
Raymond Mckay Raymond Mckay 06.06.05, 21:37
thanks for the help
4
532 clicks
Mike Coulter

Hello everyone!

Mike Coulter 01.06.05, 01:28
OKOKOKOKOKOKOK..enough talking........ c'mon with this pictures !!!! ;-))
Ruud van der Lubben 03.06.05, 22:13
Ruud van der Lubben Ruud van der Lubben 03.06.05, 22:13
OKOKOKOKOKOKOK..enough talking........ c'mon with this pictures !!!! ;-))
6
552 clicks
George Cayce

lenses for canon

George Cayce 07.04.05, 11:09
Well I will have to see about that new lens, but just keep in mind that 1.6x factor with non-natural digital cameras...the 17-40 becomes about a 28-64...so it's not that wide..

Cheers, have phun!

Ascanio.
Ascanio Colonna di Paliano 30.05.05, 18:15
Ascanio Colonna di Paliano Ascanio Colonna di Paliano 30.05.05, 18:15
Well I will have to see about that new lens, but just keep in mind that 1.6x factor with non-natural digital cameras...the 17-40 becomes about a 28-64...so it's not that wide..

Cheers, have phun!

Ascanio.
5
561 clicks
Rob Wells

Blimey !!

Rob Wells 22.05.05, 08:55
Oh yes, I forgot to add the bit that involved needing a van and an assistant. Even in the future Jessops may struggle to get all of that in a box.
Rob Wells 22.05.05, 23:38
Rob Wells Rob Wells 22.05.05, 23:38
Oh yes, I forgot to add the bit that involved needing a van and an assistant. Even in the future Jessops may struggle to get all of that in a box.
7
569 clicks
Rob Wells

Panasonic FZ20 - Idiot in need of advice !!

Rob Wells 19.05.05, 22:44
Hi Ruud - yes you can create the polarising effect with clouds in PS but it does create more noise ... and with that and any other work you may do it just adds that bit of extra .. so I guess the more you can do with a filter the better ... and the polarizer does get rid of reflections in glass, on rivers and streams, and the general reflection from foliage that reduces the saturation of the foliage etc .. that cannot be done properly in PS in my opinion ... regards, Paul.
Deleted user 21.05.05, 12:52
Deleted user Deleted user 21.05.05, 12:52
Hi Ruud - yes you can create the polarising effect with clouds in PS but it does create more noise ... and with that and any other work you may do it just adds that bit of extra .. so I guess the more you can do with a filter the better ... and the polarizer does get rid of reflections in glass, on rivers and streams, and the general reflection from foliage that reduces the saturation of the foliage etc .. that cannot be done properly in PS in my opinion ... regards, Paul.
8
513 clicks
Deleted user

Canon Service Center in Munich?

Deleted user 24.03.05, 16:41
Sometimes I buy somthing from Sauter... but only if I have no choice... their Service could be much, much better.

If I was you, I'd rather do the cleaning by myself - so do I. You might need a lot of practice to do it properly for the first time but when you got used to ist it's significantly cheaper and you can do it instantly...

Greetings from munichs outback

Johannes
Johannes Leber 17.05.05, 21:11
Johannes Leber Johannes Leber 17.05.05, 21:11
Sometimes I buy somthing from Sauter... but only if I have no choice... their Service could be much, much better.

If I was you, I'd rather do the cleaning by myself - so do I. You might need a lot of practice to do it properly for the first time but when you got used to ist it's significantly cheaper and you can do it instantly...

Greetings from munichs outback

Johannes
3
744 clicks
Theresa Iovcheva

Canon 350D?

Theresa Iovcheva 13.03.05, 22:14
I have an eos 350d for 2 Months - without chromatic aborations, perfect readable serialnumber and no errorcodes. I´ve shot the whole pictures in my account (but not the 1. pic) with this cam and and the Kit-lens 18-55

Bugsy

http://www.fotocommunity.de/pc/pc/mypics/501291



Post Edited (15:35h)
The Yardfather 17.05.05, 15:32
The Yardfather The Yardfather 17.05.05, 15:32
I have an eos 350d for 2 Months - without chromatic aborations, perfect readable serialnumber and no errorcodes. I´ve shot the whole pictures in my account (but not the 1. pic) with this cam and and the Kit-lens 18-55

Bugsy

http://www.fotocommunity.de/pc/pc/mypics/501291



Post Edited (15:35h)
10
585 clicks
Ascanio Colonna di Paliano

How to choose a digital camera: megapixels

Ascanio Colonna di Paliano 09.05.05, 14:03
I'll try to make this as clear as possible.

When choosing what camera to buy, there are several factors that each one of us will use to weigh choices, which vary from person to person.
It is difficult, for amateurs, to understand what they are going to do, and what they are going to need, exactly.
For this reason it is good to bias the choice primarily on four things (in this order):

1) Budjet;
2) Performance;
3) Compatibility with owned equipment;
4) Handling and feeling;

What I want to help you on (for what I can), is judging performance.

Specs are useless (if not used along with other factors) and can easily confuse you.
In simple words: going through a store shelf and checking the pixel-count on the tags by the cameras is not a good way to understand their performance.
This is because the resolution of a camera indicates only the size of the image output, but not it's quality, nor the amount of detail (because images are interpolated, and the final result derives also from the quality of the camera's software).

If you haven't got the change to try the cameras you have to choose from, or check out sample images (preferably printed in a lab), a good way is to look at both the resolution and the sensor size (this way you can get to know how big the sensor's pixels are).

It easy to understand why an 8.2megapixel sensor sized 22.5*15mm (Canon EOS 20D - $1400) will probably fire better pictures than an 8.0megapixels sensor sized 8.8*6.6mm (Canon PowerShot Pro1 - $700), because bigger pixels pick more light and will have to work less to render the image, reducing drastically the so called signal-to-noise ratio.

Another important thing, though tricky, is to check the image processing system generation.
When picking between cameras of the same brand it's easier: the Canon EOS 20D has the latest DiG!C-II processor, whilst the Canon PowerShot Pro1 has the older DiG!C. Obviously the newer will probably render better results.

So assuming you can not give a look at test images, you have these two tools to understand a little more deeply the performance capabilities of digital cameras:

1) sensor size / megapixel count (the higher the result, the better);
2) image processor generation;

___________________________________________

Conclusion:
In general, when figuring how to spend a good lot of money, it's always better to check the actual output images, because there are in fact a lot of little factors that can influence the true performance of a camera, while not listed in the specs (the Canon EOS 20D, for example, has an analogue power system issue that produces visible artifacts when using high ISO settings).

If you can compare output images, then you should carefully look at the following things (amongst others):

1) Image detail:
If you are talking DSLR (with removable lenses), then you must know what the mounted lens is capable of, in order to separate camera and lens performance.
If checking on screen, you must zoom to 200% or 400% and cover an area with nice and small details, so you can judge how sharp the image is (both at the center and borders of the image).
An important thing is to shoot a light-haired pet in front of a dark background: a bad processing system will often give you a heavy red blur around light streaks on a dark background)
If checking on print, you must blow up to an A4 or A3 size. This way you can see both the amount of detail and how well the image is interpolated: ofted when blowing prints you will see an annoying denting on slanted lines.

2) Image contrast:
Again if the camera has removable lenses, you better know what the lens is capable of (best way is to use a fixed 50mm top quality lens, cheap and good).
You should have a few images covering the most common situations, both low and high contrast compositions (like a dark tree in front of a strong-lit sky).
What you have to look for is burned light areas (the least the better) and bleeding around such light areas (which is most given by the lens, but not only).

3) Image tone:
Here the best pick is a portrait, as the skin tones are the most difficult to get right. Best way to check is to print the image (at a lab) and give a look at the print in daylight.
Don't worry, you can often vary the camera's tone (plus it depends on the white balance in each picture).

4) Image saturation:
Here we have two different situations:
1) if you prefer shooting and printing, then a commercial camera will do, as they are set up to fullfill the consumer's wills of achieving colourful pictures.
2) if you intend post-processing your images, you are looking for a camera that outputs neutral, I'd say "dull", images, with low contrast and saturation, so that you have more space to play around later on with Photoshop.
In general the least the contrast/saturation the better, you can always pump-up your images or ask your lab to do it (often labs do it automatically).


This is about it.
With Internet it's quite easy to find pictures made with the cameras we want to compare, giving us the chance to understand how those cameras really work.
Once you have compared the performance you can pass on to other factors of your interest.

Hope this helps,
Ascanio.
Ascanio Colonna di Paliano 09.05.05, 14:03
Ascanio Colonna di Paliano Ascanio Colonna di Paliano 09.05.05, 14:03
I'll try to make this as clear as possible.

When choosing what camera to buy, there are several factors that each one of us will use to weigh choices, which vary from person to person.
It is difficult, for amateurs, to understand what they are going to do, and what they are going to need, exactly.
For this reason it is good to bias the choice primarily on four things (in this order):

1) Budjet;
2) Performance;
3) Compatibility with owned equipment;
4) Handling and feeling;

What I want to help you on (for what I can), is judging performance.

Specs are useless (if not used along with other factors) and can easily confuse you.
In simple words: going through a store shelf and checking the pixel-count on the tags by the cameras is not a good way to understand their performance.
This is because the resolution of a camera indicates only the size of the image output, but not it's quality, nor the amount of detail (because images are interpolated, and the final result derives also from the quality of the camera's software).

If you haven't got the change to try the cameras you have to choose from, or check out sample images (preferably printed in a lab), a good way is to look at both the resolution and the sensor size (this way you can get to know how big the sensor's pixels are).

It easy to understand why an 8.2megapixel sensor sized 22.5*15mm (Canon EOS 20D - $1400) will probably fire better pictures than an 8.0megapixels sensor sized 8.8*6.6mm (Canon PowerShot Pro1 - $700), because bigger pixels pick more light and will have to work less to render the image, reducing drastically the so called signal-to-noise ratio.

Another important thing, though tricky, is to check the image processing system generation.
When picking between cameras of the same brand it's easier: the Canon EOS 20D has the latest DiG!C-II processor, whilst the Canon PowerShot Pro1 has the older DiG!C. Obviously the newer will probably render better results.

So assuming you can not give a look at test images, you have these two tools to understand a little more deeply the performance capabilities of digital cameras:

1) sensor size / megapixel count (the higher the result, the better);
2) image processor generation;

___________________________________________

Conclusion:
In general, when figuring how to spend a good lot of money, it's always better to check the actual output images, because there are in fact a lot of little factors that can influence the true performance of a camera, while not listed in the specs (the Canon EOS 20D, for example, has an analogue power system issue that produces visible artifacts when using high ISO settings).

If you can compare output images, then you should carefully look at the following things (amongst others):

1) Image detail:
If you are talking DSLR (with removable lenses), then you must know what the mounted lens is capable of, in order to separate camera and lens performance.
If checking on screen, you must zoom to 200% or 400% and cover an area with nice and small details, so you can judge how sharp the image is (both at the center and borders of the image).
An important thing is to shoot a light-haired pet in front of a dark background: a bad processing system will often give you a heavy red blur around light streaks on a dark background)
If checking on print, you must blow up to an A4 or A3 size. This way you can see both the amount of detail and how well the image is interpolated: ofted when blowing prints you will see an annoying denting on slanted lines.

2) Image contrast:
Again if the camera has removable lenses, you better know what the lens is capable of (best way is to use a fixed 50mm top quality lens, cheap and good).
You should have a few images covering the most common situations, both low and high contrast compositions (like a dark tree in front of a strong-lit sky).
What you have to look for is burned light areas (the least the better) and bleeding around such light areas (which is most given by the lens, but not only).

3) Image tone:
Here the best pick is a portrait, as the skin tones are the most difficult to get right. Best way to check is to print the image (at a lab) and give a look at the print in daylight.
Don't worry, you can often vary the camera's tone (plus it depends on the white balance in each picture).

4) Image saturation:
Here we have two different situations:
1) if you prefer shooting and printing, then a commercial camera will do, as they are set up to fullfill the consumer's wills of achieving colourful pictures.
2) if you intend post-processing your images, you are looking for a camera that outputs neutral, I'd say "dull", images, with low contrast and saturation, so that you have more space to play around later on with Photoshop.
In general the least the contrast/saturation the better, you can always pump-up your images or ask your lab to do it (often labs do it automatically).


This is about it.
With Internet it's quite easy to find pictures made with the cameras we want to compare, giving us the chance to understand how those cameras really work.
Once you have compared the performance you can pass on to other factors of your interest.

Hope this helps,
Ascanio.
1
485 clicks
Tomasso Hall

Looking for a reasonably priced wide angle lense

Tomasso Hall 24.02.05, 00:52
I use a canon 17-40mm f4 L-usm zoom and all i can say about it is, fantastic! the cheapest i have seen the at is 7dayshop.com ,i would review a lens before buying at www.fredmiranda.com/reviews you just look at the one i have mentioned!
Tony (Anthony) Rowell 26.04.05, 15:31
Tony (Anthony) Rowell Tony (Anthony) Rowell 26.04.05, 15:31
I use a canon 17-40mm f4 L-usm zoom and all i can say about it is, fantastic! the cheapest i have seen the at is 7dayshop.com ,i would review a lens before buying at www.fredmiranda.com/reviews you just look at the one i have mentioned!
5
509 clicks
Sebastjan Strancar

nikon D70 where in Berlin

Sebastjan Strancar 24.04.05, 11:59
Go to "Saturn", Alexanderplatz.

jürgen
Jürgen Menzel 24.04.05, 13:19
Jürgen Menzel Jürgen Menzel 24.04.05, 13:19
Go to "Saturn", Alexanderplatz.

jürgen
2
479 clicks
Deleted user

Panasonic Lumix FZ20

Deleted user 02.12.04, 02:08
Oh that's funny Paul. But you're photos are better than mine, and more numerous, and that's what counts. I'll try to catch up though.
Helen Page 05.04.05, 16:58
Helen Page Helen Page 05.04.05, 16:58
Oh that's funny Paul. But you're photos are better than mine, and more numerous, and that's what counts. I'll try to catch up though.
23
800 clicks
Will Hayward

Why I don't use...

Will Hayward 01.04.05, 16:19
Never ending story... :'(
Will Hayward 01.04.05, 20:00
Will Hayward Will Hayward 01.04.05, 20:00
Never ending story... :'(
5
479 clicks
Visiones de vida.

Which One and why?

Visiones de vida. 06.12.04, 19:46
ok....guys....lets settle down...some good feedback,..and some well,...I will just let it go. ))))))

what has been your experience with dust in your sensors?..and how serious is this issue?
Visiones de vida. 01.04.05, 02:15
Visiones de vida. Visiones de vida. 01.04.05, 02:15
ok....guys....lets settle down...some good feedback,..and some well,...I will just let it go. ))))))

what has been your experience with dust in your sensors?..and how serious is this issue?
15
647 clicks
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