Zone system
Hi,
Although happy with the theory regarding the zone system, is there an easy way to put it into practice? I am no Ansel Adams!
Although happy with the theory regarding the zone system, is there an easy way to put it into practice? I am no Ansel Adams!
The Gossen Starlight meter is supposed to help with this... After I buy one, I can let you know (due this weekend).
Alternatively, take readings with a spot meter and do it mentally or on paper. Works much better if you have a tripod.
Ravi
Alternatively, take readings with a spot meter and do it mentally or on paper. Works much better if you have a tripod.
Ravi
Thanks Ravi, I am determined to get to grips with it eventually. It would be great to hear how you get on with the Starlight.
Andy
Andy
Hi ANDY,
In the end I bought a Sekonic (actually two, the 558 and the 208 as it is so small and light weight).
I have used it (the 558) to take spot readings and store them and then when I have metered the highlights and shadows I look at the spread and decide where I want to put them on the scale of plus or minus two stops to the central grey area.... Or I use an incident reading and just expose for that :-)
Sorry I cannot help.
Ravi
In the end I bought a Sekonic (actually two, the 558 and the 208 as it is so small and light weight).
I have used it (the 558) to take spot readings and store them and then when I have metered the highlights and shadows I look at the spread and decide where I want to put them on the scale of plus or minus two stops to the central grey area.... Or I use an incident reading and just expose for that :-)
Sorry I cannot help.
Ravi
Hello Andy,
I don't know if in the mean time you've evolved within this system?
Actually, I myself am also just starting to use the zone system.
As you might know, some usefull links can be found on the net concerning this subject
http://www.kenrockwell.com/tech/zone.htm
and of course there's also http://www.darkroomagic.com/
(Way beyond Monochrome)
The way I work: spotmeter on Minolta IV (5 degrees since 1 degree apparently doesn't exist for this meter).
I mesure the shadowpart in which I still want to see details and I place this in Zone III.
Than I mesure the light parts in wich I sill want to see details and place these in Zone VII.
From here, and I don't really know if this is the correct way, I take the average. This should, normally, result in a correct exposed negative for all the parts of the picture.
But, as said, I don't know if this last part is the correct way to proceed. I still have to figure this one out.
Post Edited (13:57h)
I don't know if in the mean time you've evolved within this system?
Actually, I myself am also just starting to use the zone system.
As you might know, some usefull links can be found on the net concerning this subject
http://www.kenrockwell.com/tech/zone.htm
and of course there's also http://www.darkroomagic.com/
(Way beyond Monochrome)
The way I work: spotmeter on Minolta IV (5 degrees since 1 degree apparently doesn't exist for this meter).
I mesure the shadowpart in which I still want to see details and I place this in Zone III.
Than I mesure the light parts in wich I sill want to see details and place these in Zone VII.
From here, and I don't really know if this is the correct way, I take the average. This should, normally, result in a correct exposed negative for all the parts of the picture.
But, as said, I don't know if this last part is the correct way to proceed. I still have to figure this one out.
Post Edited (13:57h)
Hi Andy,
It took me around 10 time reading the same chapter, with about six months of dark room work to perfect the Zone System.
i would advice you to use top quality Muti-graid paper when it comes to printing as well.
it is well worth fully understanding it. the results are great.
once you have done this, like every thing else there will be away around it.
it is also worth taking into account that once you have mastered it you can use the neg to scan in, and the Grays will look the same on digital.
sorry i could not tell you a short cut.
Lee
It took me around 10 time reading the same chapter, with about six months of dark room work to perfect the Zone System.
i would advice you to use top quality Muti-graid paper when it comes to printing as well.
it is well worth fully understanding it. the results are great.
once you have done this, like every thing else there will be away around it.
it is also worth taking into account that once you have mastered it you can use the neg to scan in, and the Grays will look the same on digital.
sorry i could not tell you a short cut.
Lee
Hello Andy,
I just joined today and saw this question. I am not a pro but i am getting on. i am shooting the velvia film which is very sensitive for exposure. I don't use the whole zone system but a professional told me to get a reading from the highlights, and overexpose for the lattitude of the film (2 stops with the velvia). The velvia has only a dynamic range of about 5 stops from what i have read so exposure is important. I am using a pentax spotmeter and they are accurate and well know for their accuracy. You can find one on ebay f.i.
But exposure with the zone system or any system depends on the situation. If you have a straight horizon it is easier to even the exposure with nd filters. If your horizon is full of mountains and dark and light areas it will be difficult. But what you can do is expose with HDR technology.. Afterwards you combine the files and your exposure could be 'perfect' everywhere.. But again i am not a pro and maybe someone else can help you out. I would try the HDR anyway because the results can be astonishing. Good luck.
I just joined today and saw this question. I am not a pro but i am getting on. i am shooting the velvia film which is very sensitive for exposure. I don't use the whole zone system but a professional told me to get a reading from the highlights, and overexpose for the lattitude of the film (2 stops with the velvia). The velvia has only a dynamic range of about 5 stops from what i have read so exposure is important. I am using a pentax spotmeter and they are accurate and well know for their accuracy. You can find one on ebay f.i.
But exposure with the zone system or any system depends on the situation. If you have a straight horizon it is easier to even the exposure with nd filters. If your horizon is full of mountains and dark and light areas it will be difficult. But what you can do is expose with HDR technology.. Afterwards you combine the files and your exposure could be 'perfect' everywhere.. But again i am not a pro and maybe someone else can help you out. I would try the HDR anyway because the results can be astonishing. Good luck.
Here's an easy pictorial approach to the Zone system. Meter the darkest area in your scene in which you want to have some detail. The meter gives a reading for that area in Zone 5--say it's f16 at 1/30 sec. Now, set your camera to one stop LESS exposure for that area (f16 at 1/60 sec). That places the dark area at Zone 4.
Shoot it. You really can't do much better (pictorially) than this procedure. Being technical, it places your shadows just above the toe of the film curve, which gives you a tonal range in that area.
Not that hard really.
Shoot it. You really can't do much better (pictorially) than this procedure. Being technical, it places your shadows just above the toe of the film curve, which gives you a tonal range in that area.
Not that hard really.
If I were you I would start with the +1 and +2 stops over and then adjust in the darkroom.
In practical terms the zone system really is no longer as critical, as films papers and chems have all become more stable and consistent.
Exposure meters are more accurate now than in Ansels days.
In practical terms the zone system really is no longer as critical, as films papers and chems have all become more stable and consistent.
Exposure meters are more accurate now than in Ansels days.
also Andy following the very good explanation by don, remember that you can also change the development of your film and expand the tonal range. If you meter in the shadow (actually somewhere around 4) shift the zone 5(average reading) to give 1 stop less exposure and do 25% longer development you will gain more grays and keep the black and white. Andy COLLIER wrote: